NanoVNA for the radio amateur: how to measure SWR and tune an antenna

Category: AntennasDifficulty: ★★☆~9 minutes

Ten years ago, an instrument that shows the SWR and complex impedance of an antenna across an entire band at once cost as much as a used car and lived in a lab. Today the NanoVNA is a pocket vector network analyzer the size of a cigarette pack for a couple of thousand rubles, and it does almost everything the same. For a radio amateur it's the most useful measuring tool after the multimeter: with it you can see in a minute at what frequency your antenna resonates, how well it's matched, whether the cable is broken and exactly where. This article — no academic jargon — covers how to use it in practice: calibrate it, measure SWR, find resonance and trim the antenna in the right direction.

The golden rule, read this firstThe NanoVNA is a micro-power transceiver: it puts out a signal of about −10 dBm (fractions of a milliwatt) on the port and listens for the reflection. You must NEVER feed transmit power from a radio or any external RF power into the instrument's input. Even 1 watt from a handheld radio instantly burns out the input RF switches (in common boards that's the MXD8641 chip) — and bricks the device. Measure the antenna only passively, with the radio off and unplugged. No "let me just key up to be sure while it's connected."

What the NanoVNA is and how it works

VNA stands for Vector Network Analyzer. "Vector" — because it measures not only how much signal was reflected, but also the phase, i.e. the full complex picture. From this data the instrument itself computes SWR, return loss, impedance, draws the Smith chart and a time-domain trace. Physically it's a small box with a screen (2.8″ on the NanoVNA-H, 4″ on the H4), a wheel or touch control, USB-C for power and a computer link, and two SMA RF connectors:

The kit comes with three calibration standards: Open, Short, Load (a 50 ohm load) — usually three small SMA caps, plus a short SMA jumper cable. They're not for decoration; without them the instrument is useless — more on that below.

Calibration — without it everything is a lie

This is the most common beginner question and the most common reason for "the instrument shows nonsense." The NanoVNA measures at the end of its port, but between the port and the antenna there's always an adapter, a jumper cable, connectors — and each one introduces its own loss and phase shift. Calibration "zeroes" the instrument exactly at the point where you'll connect the antenna, and removes the influence of everything up to that point.

The standard SOLT procedure is used (Short — Open — Load — Thru). The order is:

  1. First set the range. In the STIMULUS menu set START and STOP around the operating frequency. For 2 m (in Russia that's 144–146 MHz) — for example START 143 MHz, STOP 147 MHz. The calibration is valid only for this range.
  2. Screw the jumper cable (the one supplied in the kit) onto Port 1. You must calibrate at the far end of the jumper — where the antenna connector will later go. This is the key point: the standards are screwed onto the end of the cable, not directly onto the instrument.
  3. CAL → RESET (clear the old calibration) → CALIBRATE.
  4. Screw OPEN onto the end of the cable → press OPEN.
  5. Switch to SHORT → press SHORT.
  6. Switch to LOAD (50 ohm) → press LOAD. (ISOLN and THRU can be skipped when measuring a single antenna — they're needed for S21.)
  7. DONE → save to a slot (SAVE → for example slot 0). Done.
Changed the range — recalibrateCalibration is tied to the frequency range and to a specific cable/adapter. If after calibrating on 143–147 MHz you change START/STOP to 430–440 MHz, or screw on a different adapter — the old calibration is invalid and you can't trust the numbers. Change the cable, adapter or range → repeat SOLT. It's handy to keep several saved calibrations in different slots (2 m, 70 cm, HF).
A narrow range is more accurateThe NanoVNA shows a fixed number of points (101 on older firmware, more on newer ones). The narrower the range you set, the denser the points and the more accurate the graph. Don't scan 50 kHz–1.5 GHz "just in case" — to tune 2 m take 130–160 MHz, and the SWR dip will be visible in detail.

Measuring an antenna's SWR and S11

Calibration is saved — now the antenna itself. Unscrew the standard, screw the antenna's connector (or its feedline) onto the end of the jumper cable. In the DISPLAY → FORMAT menu choose SWR for trace 1 — the instrument will plot SWR vs. frequency. It's useful to set the second trace to SMITH or LOGMAG (S11 in dB, return loss), so you can see both the match and the reactance.

A V-shaped dip — a "checkmark" — will appear on the screen. Its lowest point is the resonance: the frequency where the antenna is best matched and the SWR is minimal. Put a marker (MARKER) at the bottom of the dip — the instrument will show the frequency and value, for example 145.500MHz  1.15.

How to read the SWR figure:

SWRWhat it means
1.0–1.5Excellent. The antenna is matched, you can operate.
1.5–2.0Good/acceptable. Most radios deliver power fine anyway.
2.0–3.0So-so. Some power is reflected, worth tuning.
>3.0Bad. The antenna is on the wrong frequency, a break, a calibration error or a short in the feedline.

If instead of a "checkmark" you see a flat line near SWR 1.0 across the whole range — that's almost always not a "perfect antenna" but a forgotten calibration with the Load still attached or a break. A real antenna always gives a characteristic dip.

Resonance: which way to trim the element

Suppose the SWR dip of your homemade 2 m antenna turned out to be not at 145 MHz but at 138 MHz — that is, below the desired frequency. The basic rule for whip/wire antennas (and resonators in general):

Work in small steps and write down the result — it's better to undercut than to overcut (growing a piece of metal back is harder). A rough guide: to raise the resonance of a quarter-wave 2 meter whip by ~1 MHz, you change the length by literally a few millimeters. Trim → re-measure → trim. For typical designs — a quarter-wave GP, balcony variants — see our separate write-ups (links below): they cover counterpoise lengths and the effect of the ground/balcony on resonance.

Resonance ≠ matchingThe SWR minimum and the reactance minimum (zero imaginary part of the impedance on the Smith chart) can lie at slightly different frequencies. In practice, chase the SWR minimum. But if the SWR at the minimum stubbornly won't drop below ~1.8 — the issue isn't length but matching (the resistive impedance at the feed point isn't 50 ohms): here a matching unit, gamma match, or changing the feed point/angle helps, not trimming.
Tune to the permitted bandThe NanoVNA measures passively and radiates nothing on the air itself — you can scan with it anywhere. But you cut the antenna for transmission, and in Russia you may transmit only in the amateur bands and only with a license (a callsign). For 2 m that's 144–146 MHz, for 70 cm — 430–440 MHz (see frequencies and the law). Catch resonance inside the permitted segment, not "where the dip looks prettier": an antenna tuned to 147 or 148 MHz is no longer about amateur radio in Russia.

Cable length and finding a break (TDR)

The NanoVNA can work as a time-domain reflectometer (TDR): it sends a "pulse" down the cable and watches how long it takes the reflection to return. From the delay it calculates the distance to the end of the cable — or to the point of damage. This is a lifesaver when the feedline is buried in a wall/mast and you can't tell whether it's intact.

What you need to know:

  1. The cable's velocity factor (VF). For RG-58 ~0.66, for foamed polyethylene/LMR — about 0.82–0.85. Without it the instrument computes the "electrical" length, not the physical one.
  2. It's measured from the S11 port (CH0) via the transform function (TRANSFORM → TDR / Low Pass submode), or by exporting S1P data to a PC program (NanoVNA-Saver, processing scripts).
  3. The top scan frequency (STOP) is chosen to match the expected length: the longer the cable — the lower the STOP. The physics is simple: the maximum observable "range" is set not by the STOP frequency itself but by the frequency step Δf = STOP/(number of points−1) — the maximum reflection delay equals 1/Δf. So for a long feedline you narrow STOP, for a short one you raise it. A practical guide: a STOP of about 130–150 MHz lets you confidently "see" cables tens of meters long; the exact value is easier to find by trial (if the peak runs into the right edge of the trace — lower the STOP), and the velocity factor VF is entered as a separate parameter, it doesn't affect the choice of STOP.

How to read the result: an open end gives a reflection spike upward (open), a short circuit — downward (short). If the spike arrives earlier than the full cable length was expected — there's a break, a soaked connector or a crushed section there. Poorly soldered/oxidized connectors also show up on the time-domain trace as extra spikes — something that isn't always visible by eye on the connector (see connector repair).

Static kills the input no less than transmit powerA long feedline from an outdoor rooftop antenna accumulates a static charge (wind, precipitation, a storm front beyond the horizon). Before you screw such a cable onto the NanoVNA, discharge it: short the center conductor to the braid with a screwdriver/wrench. The instrument is just as sensitive to ESD as to RF power — a static discharge through the input burns out the same input switches. And separately: lightning protection — don't climb the mast or touch the antenna in a thunderstorm, the NanoVNA isn't worth it.

Common beginner mistakes

Power and USBThe NanoVNA runs on a built-in battery and charges over USB. Don't connect it to a computer and a mains-charged device at the same time as an outdoor antenna when there's a difference in ground potential — a "ground loop" through the laptop's USB port can push current through the instrument's input. Measuring an outdoor antenna — power the instrument from its battery, disconnect the laptop from the mains (run it on battery) or discharge the static and connect carefully.

Tuned the antenna — get on the air

When the SWR is good and the antenna rings on the right frequency — it's time to get on the network. In DMRhub you'll find private calls by DMR ID, SMS and groups. No coverage nearby? Build your own hotspot in an evening and bring up a node where there was no signal. A good antenna + a hotspot = your spot on the air.

Sources

  1. How to Use a NanoVNA: The Ultimate Beginner's Guide (CH0/CH1 ports, SWR, the 146.520 MHz example, the common calibration mistake) — nanorfe.com
  2. Antenna SWR Tuning | NanoVNA (calibrating at the end of the cable, finding the SWR dip, resonance) — nanorfe.com
  3. Calculating Coax Length by using a NanoVNA as a Time-Domain Reflectometer (TDR, cable length and breaks) — rtl-sdr.com
  4. Repairing a NanoVNA "V2" with "blown up" input (how the MXD8641 input RF switch burns out from power/static) — ka7oei.blogspot.com